There are many options for ingredients when making soap.
There are a few ingredients that are required. Without oil,
water and lye it would not be soap. You get to choose which
oils and in what amount you superfat and what additives
make your recipe unique. To learn more about the specific
ingredients take a look at the list below.
Lye
All soap recipes contain lye (or it wouldn't be soap).
Lye is to be respected, not feared. Store in a place where
children or pets will not find it. Protect your hands and
eyes while using it. Dissolve lye in cold water. Never
pour the water into the lye or it could explode. Stir
consistently as you pour the lye into the water, or the
lye will settle to the bottom and solidify. If this happens,
tap it with the stirring utensil to break it up. As you
mix it, a chemical reaction produces heat and fumes. I alway
mix my lye outside. Stir the lye water until the water becomes
relatively clear. The lye water will have to cool to 120
degrees F before adding the fat.
Water
For best results, us rain, distilled or soft water. You
should generally us 6 oz. of water to 16 oz. of fat. Another
way to figure the same thing is water weight+fat weight
x 0.38. I actually to online to one of the lye caluculators
to figure out my ratios because it is so simple and I trust
the calculations more than my own. The water measurement
doesn't have to be exact. The lye calculators give youa
range to workwithing. The one I've used the most is found
at http://www.thesage.com/calcs/lyecalc2.php.
Fats and Oils
Each fat or oil has a different property. Traditionally
animal fat has been used, with beef tallow making the best
soap and pork lard as the next choice. If you want to use
vegetable oils in your soap, palm oil is a great choice
for a hard soap. Olive oil will add mildness to your soap
and is sometimes used as the single oil in a recipe. Coconut
oil or palm kernel oil will contribute big fluffy bubbles
to the recipe, but is drying if used alone in a batch of
soap. Soybean oil by itself makes a brittle, but hard white
soap. Combine with other oils to make a nice soap that is
less expensive. If you want to better understand the individual
oils, The Natural Soap Book by Susan Miller Cavitch
lists the benefits of each.
Superfatting Oil
When your soap gets to the trace stage, the saponification
process is almost complete. Fat added at this point makes
your soap softer. More expensive oils are often added at
this point to keep them as "free fat" that doesn't
saponify with the other oils. Use these nourishing oils
to superfat your soap, making them more moisturizing. A
good rule of thumb is to use 1 oz. per pound (16 oz.) of
total fat used in the recipe. Some of the more common superfatting
oils are:
Avocado Oil: Moisturizing. Contains
vitamins, protein, lecithin and fatty acids, all of
which are espceially beneficial for those with dry skin
or eczema.
Cocoa Butter: Makes a hard bar. It has wonderful soothing
and emollient qualities, but doesn't lather.
shea Butter: This moisturizing and nourishing butter
will not saponify and so remains in your soap to soothe
sensitive skin.
Sweet Almond Oil: Moisturizing and rich in protein,
which offers relief for itchy or inflamed skin.
Castor Oil: Acts as a humectant which means is attracts
moisture to the skin. Because of this castor oil well
suited for shampoo bars and skin-care products.
Fragrance and Additives
The two types of oil used for fragrance are FO (fragrance
oil) and EO (essential oil). Fragrances that have not
been tested for soapmaking can cause a batch of soap to
seize. Always add fragrance and other additives at the
trace stage. Be aware that some people are sensitive to
fragrance in soap and other products.